There may be some value in your work in selling to a private buyer but if selling to trade it will make no difference.
Or alternatively if I went to see a car that the buyer had spent quite a bit of money on in a relatively short ownership I would be asking myself why sell it? The wife not liking it would not be a good enough reason.
Look at WBAC or other buyer price and add a margin that you might trim later on in a haggle with a potential buyer
It also works the other way. Clever buyers will be putting your reg into WBAC to see what is being offered. They will then be negotiating as close to that figure as possible. Its just the same as we did in the 70's and 80's using Parkers guide off the newsagents rack. Think Parkers guide still exists but the last time I looked you have use the interweb and pay.
Last couple of private sales I have made (using Autotrader) I simply looked for near identical cars (not difficult since both were Micra's) and priced ours a few pounds below those. Worked a treat, both sold within 12 hours of placing the adverts at satisfactory prices.
Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened.
In April 2025 that could be an MOT failure which would probably mean sc***ping a 16 year old car. Its not an advisory I would want to see on a car I was buying.
Edited by skidpan on 04/05/2024 at 09:08
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I would be asking myself why sell it? The wife not liking it would not be a good enough reason.
I would tend to agree, but going by various other threads including SLO's, it isn't a universally shared view!
Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened.
In April 2025 that could be an MOT failure which would probably mean sc***ping a 16 year old car. Its not an advisory I would want to see on a car I was buying.
My assumption on this would be that it is just surface rust, which wouldn't alarm me too much (though I would get under the car and check thoroughly). But I could see this advisory scaring off many potential buyers, so it seems inexplicable to me that the OP (who seems to be either a mechanic or at least mechanically minded) has chosen to ignore it. Given it was noted in the 2023 MOT (if I'm reading the thread right) and the OP has spent quite a lot of money, including on superficial and unnecessary stuff like diamond cut alloys, surely spending a little time under the car with a wire brush and a modest sum of money on some kind protective coating would be worthwhile (especially since the original intention was to keep the car longer term)?
Edited by badbusdriver on 04/05/2024 at 10:00
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No the advisories was just now April 2024. The previous MOT April 2023, there was no any advisories, and this has inspected in the same garage, is it frame suddenly corroded significantly by1 year? I don’t think so. I have planned to inspect this in May, and see if this is just surface rust, which I believe it is, as there is plenty of CR-Vs with the same age or older, here in UK as well as in much harsher weather like Canada and Some USA states, and there is plenty of people still happy with the car and did not see plenty of people complaining about frame corrosion.
Besides one garage will advise the frame is corroded and fail the MOT, where other says it’s surface corrosion, and the frame structure is not affected.
The number of people, the number of different options, that’s the conclusion.
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I much prefer to keep the car for next 2-3 years, when I know it’s not need any work, apart from checking the frame rust, than selling for such small price, and then buying for the same money s*** car, as they are usually need new tyres, brakes, and comprehensive service, and who knows what else. Do you think you will easily find used car which does not have any problems? That’s sad but true for me.
Edited by macbook on 04/05/2024 at 11:41
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It's a bitter pill to swallow when you've spent a lot of money on maintaining a vehicle but unfortunately that doesn't necessarily inflate its value.
I run an old 2007 Focus. In the last seven months I've spent more than its market value on maintenance - service, MOT, rocker cover oil leak, immobiliser repair and two new front wheel bearings. The car's value hasn't increased, all it means is should I sell it then it's saleable.
That's just life, running any vehicle is expensive. Old car = repairs, new car = depreciation or monthlies.
It's also worth remembering the old saying that something is only worth what someone else is prepared to pay. The valuation to the owner is unfortunately irrelevant. Look on Autotrader or similar sites to see what other cars are going for.
Edited by Xileno on 04/05/2024 at 11:45
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Your CRV could be the twin of my CRV Mk3 auto which I bought just over a year ago. Mine is a EX with just about every extra that was available. I had a major 100,000 service done when I got her changing all fluids etc and my trusted mechanic told me she was in excellent condition with negligible corrosion. I’ve just had her serviced again after 9,000 trouble free miles and hope for another year of trouble free motoring.
You’ve got one of the best cars out there, if the body is solid you should get at least another five years out of her. I’d keep her; you have stress free motoring with proper instrumentation and controls and a proper ignition key, none of this nonsense of keyless entry. You won’t have to go through the trauma of waking up to find some thief has stolen your modern car as the thief’s ignore the older CRVs.
I would have to be deranged to sell my car and get something more modern because the CRV does everything I need and more. It drives well, I get well over 30 mpg and I have adaptive cruise control, emergency braking etc etc and those lovely 17” wheels that float over the pot holes.
Go on YouTube and see what Scotty Kilmer has to say about the older CRVs, he recommends them.
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Can I ask how much you paid for your CR-V? Is petrol 2009 like mine?
My rims are also 17” with high profile tyres (All season Good Year Vector 4 gen 3), but the ride is quiet harsh. The tyres pressure 2.1 bar as per label on Honda frame.
It’s drives nice and and can feel solid steering, just the suspension feels for me hard, as I can feel every road ruggedness and holes. I even thought to replace the springs to get more soft and comfy ride, but I learned from the above comments this will be waste of money, if decide to sell the car in near future., as this. not bring much value and nobody will pay for it except me.
The only modern car I would consider to buy (petrol, automatic) it would be Mazda CX-30 Skyactive G.
Is the insurance not give your the market value of the car at the time of being stolen, why people have traumas, if they can buy something similar if they want for the insurance money back, or am I missing something?
Edited by macbook on 04/05/2024 at 19:03
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macbook - have a 2007 model and paid £4k last year with 107,000 miles it now has 116,000 miles. The ride is very compliant and not harsh at all, I have Avon R17 225/65s. I have been through the very comprehensive paperwork I have for the car and it seems the shocks are the originals. I wouldn’t expect the ride of a Mk3 CRV to be harsh and wonder if your shocks are aftermarket items?
You mention the Mazda CX-30, funnily enough before this CRV came along I considered buying a new Mazda CX-5 and test drove one. It was OK but I was quite pleased to return home in my 22 year old Mercedes CLK that I had at the time. I suppose my problem is that I don't believe modern cars offer any significant improvement over an older well maintained car from a good manufacturer.
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I also have 225/65 tyres, and as Good Year all season, they should be more soft than any summer tyres. I believe the spring and shocks are Honda one, they looks they never been replaced. I think that the coils or shocks due to age may not be working properly anymore, as when they were new. There is now problem over the stop bumps, but is very unpleasant feeling when driving on poor road surface and even small holes. Planning to inspect this next week.
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Something is amiss with your suspension, my CRV glides over poor roads.
Edited by johncyprus on 05/05/2024 at 21:39
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